Travel Guide for Summer in Positano, Italy

The Amalfi Coast is one of the top bucket-list destinations on most travelers’ lists. From the romantic views, blue waters, lemon-themed everything, and of course, the food, one can only dream of vacationing there. This summer, we convinced my mom to ditch the Greek islands (well, sort of) and stay in the most popular town on the Amalfi Coast: Positano. This dreamy town reminded me so much of Santorini and more with its many steps to climb, mesmerizing views, and all of the expenses combined. Although we did not have enough days to visit all the towns on the Amalfi Coast, staying in Positano was the easiest way to try and hit as many as possible. We decided to forgo listening to those who warned us not to and stay in the very busy, very touristy part of the coast. I have no regrets! Here is all you need to know while visiting or staying in the adoring town of Positano.

Number of Days to Stay: 2-5 Days (stay 2-3 days in each town of the Amalfi Coast in you plan to hop around and explore!) Positano’s busy tourist months start in May and end in October.

Expenses: $$$-$$$$

Best Time To Visit: June-September (Beach Weather), April, May, October for shoulder season

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Where to Stay:

Hotels:

• Covo dei Saraceni – My family and I stayed at this hotel, and it was in the perfect location for getting to the beach and the ferry. Although did have to climb up and down many steps to reach all the restaurants, bars, and shops, the view from the balcony was beautiful, and the room was very spacious, fitting a queen bed and a twin bed for the three of us. The bathroom had a shower, a Jacuzzi tub, a double sink counter with mirrors, as well as a toilet and bidet.

Covo Dei Saraceni offers many services: there was a full breakfast included every morning, a rooftop pool with a gorgeous view of the town, with bar service serving lunch and drinks from 11 am to 4 pm, a dining restaurant connected to the hotel, and a casual restaurant that had great pizza and gelato. The hotel is a five-minute walk from the main beach and a seven-minute walk from Fornillo beach. This hotel definitely comes with a price tag, but I think it is worth every penny if you don’t mind climbing stairs and plan to spend most of your day on the beach or traveling to a different part of the Amalfi Coast. If you are looking for more details on my overall hotel experience and all that Covo Dei Saraceni has to offer, read my blog post here.

• Moro Positano
• Casa Pietro

Airbnbs/rentals:

• HOUSE WITH TERRACE AND SEA VIEW
• CHARMING HOUSE Beautiful house with private parking
• At the knight’s house

Hostel:   

• Hostel Brikette
• Hotel Villa Gabrisa
• Venus Inn, B & B Positano

Where to Eat:

*Tip: You must make reservations either weeks or months in advance, depending on the restaurant’s reservation guidelines. Some restaurants will be booked months in advance, while others require you to wait 14 days before your ‘dining date’ to book. If you want to eat at one of the popular restaurants, check every day for reservations to become available, as the reservation spots will go fast, especially during the typical dining hours and the busy season!

• Il Ritrovo ($$-$$$): This restaurant was recommended by our local driver, as well as by multiple videos on TikTok. This restaurant favorite meal of the entire trip. Since Il Ritrovo is on the opposite side of the Positano mountain, the restaurant will contact you to schedule a free shuttle service to and from the restaurant. We met the driver at a central location with people who had similar reservation times.All the meals at the restaurant are made with freshly grown vegetables displayed inside the establishment. Surprisingly, it was also one of the most inexpensive meals on the trip, considering the amount of food we ordered. I suggest making an earlier reservation, as some entrees on the menu were unavailable when we sat down to order at 8:30 pm.

• Da Vincenzo ($$$): One of the most recommended restaurants to eat in Positano. Although more expensive than usual, the food was very good, and the waiters were friendly. To solidify our reservation, we had to put down euros as a temporary hold in order to book it. We were a little upset that we were seated inside, as the outside seating has a pleasant view, but the interior decorations were also very lovely and overall made for a great dining experience. Locals recommend going to this restaurant over some of the more popular ones, and I agree! It is worth the hike and the booking fee to ensure your reservation. They also offer vegan options!

• Tre Sorelle ($$): The food here was exceptional, yet expensive, as it was right on the beach. We chose this restaurant after our driver recommended it instead of Chez Black (which I will also be discussing below.) The servers were very friendly, but I would only recommend it as a last-minute option or for lunch.

• Capricci ($$): My sister and I ate here when we first arrived in Positano as we were very hungry from traveling. There is a take-out section in the town with limited seating and a dining area near the beach. This place was a little expensive, as two personal pizzas and water cost us over €30. It wasn’t our favorite pizza spot, but was acceptable for a quick meal.

• La Brasserie ($$): This restaurant was part of our hotel and had my favorite pizza in Positano. We grabbed a quick bite here before heading to one of our excursions followed by dinner. This is also a great place to stop, as it is very close to the ferry and has amazing gelato, including the famous Lemon Sorbet.

• Ristorante Lo Guarracino ($$$): A hidden gem found in between both Positano beaches, we booked Ristorante Lo Guarracino the day of, due to the fact that we decided not to eat dinner on our day trip to Ravello. Not only were our meals delicious, but the desserts were even better (I highly recommend the Tiramisu and chocolate cake!)

• Ristorante Marina Grande, Amalfi Town ($$$): After doing some research on restaurants in Amalfi town, we decided to eat at Marina Grande, as it had the best reviews and was close to the beach bar. It had a beautiful outlook of the water and not to mention the best mussels we ate on the entire trip. We all decided to have a fish dish, since it is recommended by most reviewers, and it did not disappoint. I had the snapper, while my mom and sister had the sea bass. This restaurant was expensive, most likely due to its Michelin star-rating, but definitely worth the price!

• La Giara, Anacapri ($$): Eating here was by chance, as we accidentally ended up in Anacapri during our day trip. Our lunch was very light and featured traditional italian meals like Gnocchi. My sister had mussels, which she absolutely loved, and my mom had the chicken, which we do not recommend as it lacked flavor. Overall, it was a good lunch that helped us save a little money, as the restaurants in Capri town were more costly.

Other Recommendations:

• Chez Black ($$$): We decided to cancel this reservation as locals informed us it was a tourist trap and the food wasn’t authentic. It is said that a lot of celebrities visit and dine at this restaurant.
• Ristorante Mediterraneo ($$) – A little far from the main town, but we were able to find a reservation every night during our stay in August. It is budget-friendly, and everyone recommended we eat here if we were hungry for seafood.
• Saraceno d’Oro ($$) – Recommended by locals, unfortunately could not get a reservation. Vegan options!
• Ristorante Max ($$$$) – Recommended by our driver
• La Tagliata ($$$)
• La Sponda ($$$$)
• Il Tridente, Poseidon Hotel ($$$$) Vegan Options!
• Maestros ($$$)
• Zass ($$$$)
• Al Palazzo Restaurant ($$$) Vegan Options!
• Ristorante Bruno ($$$)

Vegetarian/Vegan Recommendations:

• Casa e Bottega ($$)
• Casa Mele ($$$)
• Da Gabrisa ($$)
• Ristorante il Fornillo ($$)
• Caffee Positano ($$)

What to Do:

Beaches

• Positano Spiaggia Grande: We spent our first day in Positano here, and it is definitely the most crowded beach due to the spectacular view of the town and where the ferries arrive and depart from. There is a small section where you can lay out on the sand for free; otherwise, you have to pay for two sunbeds and an umbrella. Depending on the beach club you choose and the row your seats are located in, you will be spending €30-60 per person. We spent €45 each for our sunbeds, which were in the 3rd row. The water was very beautiful and refreshing, and it was the best spot to get a picture in the water with a view!

• Fornillo Beach: This small beach is to the left of Spiaggia Grande and is much less crowded. My sister and I spent our second day here and enjoyed the sun and relaxation. There are a couple of restaurants to grab food and a small food stand to get drinks and snacks. The beach rentals are a little cheaper than the main beach, about €35 per person. Coming to Fornillo Beach rather than Spiaggia Grande is a great option if you would like to avoid the crowds.

• Arienzo and Laurito Beach: These two beach clubs are not reachable on foot and are not near Positano Town, but they are probably the most pictured beaches in Positano. You can take a boat to these beaches, but make sure to make a reservation for beach chairs beforehand. Unfortunately, we were not able to make it to either of these beach clubs, but they are highly recommended if you want more of a luxury beach experience and to get a picture with the famous orange and white beach umbrellas!

Activities

• Day trip to Amalfi & Ravello: We took a ferry from Positano to Amalfi that cost about €10 per person. The ferry drops you off right at the port of Amalfi Town, which is located right next to the beach bars and before the main town. To get to Ravello from Amalfi Town, you can take a bus or a taxi. We decided to split a taxi with another couple who was staying in Ravello. This was easier than taking the bus but more expensive, as we had to come back to Amalfi by ourselves, and it cost around €50. Below is how we split the day up between the two popular towns on the Amalfi Coast:
• Amalfi: Once you arrive in Amalfi, you will see several beach bars lined up on the water where you can grab something to eat and rent beach chairs. As you walk away from the port, you can walk straight into the town for shopping, restaurants, and cafes. My family and I decided to relax on the beach and have lunch at one of the restaurants affiliated with the beach bars, as it was a 90-degree day, and we wanted to stay cool. Once we finished lunch, we spent a couple more hours on the beach before heading up to Ravello. We didn’t feel the need to explore the town, as family and friends had told us it is similar to Positano in terms of shops and restaurants.
• Ravello: Arriving in Ravello was like stepping into a fairytale town. The town is known for its beautiful villas and breathtaking views of the coast. The plaza is filled with shops and cafes where you can grab a quick bite of food or enjoy a cup of espresso. We only had a couple of hours to explore Ravello, so we decided to walk and discover Villa Rufolo. This villa was absolutely stunning, with awe-inspiring towers, gorgeous gardens full of greenery, and spectacular views of the coast and the villa as a whole. There are many shops with charming gifts to buy and beautifully designed ceramic plates. We also decided to try our first Lemon Sorbet while walking around Ravello, and it was the perfect refreshing treat on a hot summer’s day. I wish we had more time to explore this gorgeous town, since there is so much to see, and if you have the time, I highly recommend spending at least half a day here!

• Day trip to Capri: You can take a ferry to Capri from Positano and explore the island yourself, but we decided to take a boat tour to the island instead. There were seven other people on the boat with us, and it took us all around the island of Capri; we stopped for a swim, drinks and lunch were provided, and we had the opportunity to roam Capri for three hours. It was a great way to see Capri in a short amount of time as well as learn all about the island. Positano is far from Capri, so we spent most of the sever hour boat day in the water.

We accidentally took the cab to Anacapri thinking it was the main town, but we were not mad once we arrived. It was definitely less crowded and filled with more locals. We decided to have lunch at a restaurant and walk some of the small streets while peeking in the local shops before heading to Capri Town. Luckily, there are a lot of taxis that drive around Capri, so we were able to hail a car easily. The ride was about fifteen minutes up the mountain.

After arriving in Capri Town, we headed straight to Via Camerelle, the popular shopping road in Capri Town, to visit all the designer shops. We got to see the bell tower, enjoy an amazing view of the island, and of course do some shopping (how do you not treat yourself in Italy) before we had to head back to the port to our boat. There were many restaurants and cafes to enjoy downtime if you choose only to visit the main square and want to relax. If you have a limited amount of time traveling the Amalfi Coast and would like to visit Capri, this is a unique way to enjoy a swim, visit the island, and get some shopping done!

• Boat tour to Ischia: If you want to avoid the crowds of Capri and visit a unique island, Ischia is the place to go. Ischia is the next up and coming spot to visit while exploring the Amalfi Coast, and while unfortunately, we were unable to visit, a family friend had traveled to the island a month before and said it was absolutely incredible! You can take a day trip from Sorrento to Ischia. If you are staying in Positano, you will have to take two ferries to visit, but it’s worth it!

• Hike Path of Gods – If you are an adrenaline junkie and love hiking, this is the activity for you. The full hike from Bomerano down to Positano is about 4.7 miles and will take 2.5-4 hours, depending on how skilled of a hiker you are. There is a shorter hike you can take, but many people say it is worth doing the full hike! The best time to hike is between April and June, but if you are on your summer vacation during peak season, make sure to start as early as 6:30 am and no later than 10 am!
• Amalfi Sunset Cruise: We had some hiccups at the start of our trip to Positano, which resulted in us adjusting our plans and canceling our private sunset cruise. We were able to book last minute a shared sunset cruise with 5 other people that included snacks and a boat ride towards Amalfi. The trip was on the more affordable side, at €73 per person, so if you are on a budget, this is a great option. However, if you want a more intimate experience, I suggest booking a private tour. The cruise offered us some grapes and prosecco on our trip, and took us a little past Priano, where we got to see Fiordo di Furore, beautiful mansions, and stunning caves along the coast. If you want to see the private sunset cruise option click here.
• Take a Cooking Class: If you have TikTok and started looking up what to do on the Amalfi Coast, then you have definitely seen some famous cooking classes appear on your feed. The most famous one being Tagliatelle, which is booked months in advance (if you are planning to visit next summer, no joke, book now!). Unfortunately, we had to cancel our cooking class in Priano, as most classes in Positano were very expensive and fully booked. However, I have listed below some options for great cooking classes that are worth traveling to and have amazing reviews!
  • La Tagiliata – Positano: The Tiktok famous cooking class where you make your meals with fresh ingredients from the family’s garden and wine is included!
  • Amalfi Heaven Gardens – Amalfi: We tried to book this cooking class, but were unable to secure a reservation due to it’s popularity. All of the ingredients are fresh and come from the family’s garden. It has very good reviews!
  • Be Genuine – Priano: This is the cooking class we had booked originally, but had to cancel. It has great reviews and is close to Positano.
  • Penisola Experience – Sorrento: If you are staying in Sorrento, I highly recommend booking this cooking class. Reviewers recommend reserving the night class. The morning class was only open for us and we wanted to explore the city during the day, which is why we didn’t book this experience
  • Positano Home Cooking – Positano: This cooking experience is great if you want to have a fine dining meal. It was more expensive than the other selections we researched.  
  • Covo Dei Saraceni: This cooking class was part of our hotel and has great reviews. The only reason why we didn’t book it was because the chef is not available in August and we stayed in Positano the first week of August.
  • Positano Pizza Experience: This is a great cooking class to reserve and has a lot of 4.5 to 5-star reviews!
• Private Boat Day Trip Amalfi Coast: This was a top recommendation if you have a short trip to Amalfi. Some of the boats will take you to swimming spots only accessible by boat and will provide lunch and drinks. If you are traveling with a group, this is a great option to see the coast at (hopefully) an inexpensive cost.
• Water Sports
• Food and Wine Tour
• Shop in the towns
• Day trip to Sorrento
• Day Trip to Priano
• Day Trip to Pompeii

Nightlife

*Tip: When you are looking to order an alcoholic beverage at a beach bar or restaurant, ask for a Limoncello Spritz! This will be your new obsession of the trip!

• Music On the Rocks: This is the only club in Positano and if you are looking for a party this is the spot for you. We visited during peak season, so the entry price was €40which included a drink. Before hitting up the club we noticed the reviews were 50/50, but ended up deciding to go. The club is at the end of the beach and you have to enter through the beach club, which takes you inside a cave that the club is located in (a one-of-a-kind experience.) The music was great and the drinks were very strong (which is ideal considering its a club), but if you don’t like crowds, you might have some difficulty enjoying your time. If you are traveling with a group or have met friends while visiting, it is recommended to buy table service to avoid the crowds. If you don’t mind being a little hot and being amongst the usual club crowd, this is a great spot to party in Positano This is the only club in Positano, and if you’re looking for a party, this is the spot for you. We visited during peak season, so the entry price was €40, which included a drink. Before hitting up the club, we noticed the reviews were 50/50, but we ended up deciding to go. The club is at the end of the beach, and you have to enter through the beach club, which takes you inside a cave where the club is located (a one-of-a-kind experience). The music was great, and the drinks were very strong (which is great considering it’s a club). However, if you don’t like crowds, you might have some difficulty enjoying your time. If you are traveling with a group or have met friends while visiting, it is recommended to buy table service to avoid the crowds. If you don’t mind being a little hot and the usual club crowd, this is a great spot to party in Positano!

• Francos Bar: This is probably the top cocktail bar in Positano because of its view. We were also 50/50 on whether we should grab drinks here but did not regret it once we went. Luck was definitely on our side as we were able to get a front table without a reservation after waiting for about 20 minutes during sunset… but at a price. The minimum spend for each person was €40 for front tables and €35 each for every other table; we ended up spending €50 each on two drinks (yikes!). If you are traveling with two people, you are more likely to get a table with a view, whereas tables of 3+ were seated to the side or the back of the bar. I highly recommend making a reservation here if possible! If you are ready to budget some money for good cocktails (the watermelon margarita is AMAZING), amazing views for all your social media posts, and great music, then Franco’s is definitely worth it!

• Ocean Bar: This bar is right before Music On The Rocks and where we decided to have drinks as a pregame. The vibes and music here were great, and it is right on the beach. You have to order drinks at the counter and bring the receipts to the bartender, which was a little odd.
• Champagne Bar: This bar is located at Le Sirenuse and has almost the same view as Franco’s! If Franco’s is too crowded, you can grab a drink here with less of a wait.
• Paradise Lounge Bar: My family and I came here for a drink while exploring the town one night. It has outdoor seating with a view of the ocean and beach. It is a very small area and has a TV that will be playing sports or the news.
• Il Tridente Cocktail Bar: This bar is part of Hotel Poseidon and has a unbelievable view of the town. Make sure to make a reservation to catch a great view of the sunset!

Transportation:

Getting To Positano

Airplane – You cannot fly into Positano (unless you have a yacht to land a helicopter on), so you have to fly into the city of Naples if Positano is your first destination spot in Italy. Naples is about an hour to an hour and a half from Positano, depending on the amount of traffic. Naples is an international airport, so you are able to travel from many parts of the world.

Ferry – Once you have landed or traveled to Naples, the only other way to get directly to Positano (other than driving) is by ferry. Many people recommended we not take the ferry from Naples as it was deemed unsafe, but while in Positano, we found that other travelers had a good experience. The ferry will drop you off at the small port of Positano, and if your accommodation is in the town, be ready to climb a lot of steps (pack light!). The journey is about an hour to an hour and a half trip from Naples, with an average of 4 sailings per day. The average cost is about €85 per person. If Positano is not your first destination on the Amalfi Coast, you can also take the ferry from Sorrento, Amalfi, or Salerno. You can book directly on the ferry sites, but you can also use directferries.com, which I have used for many of my ferry trips in Greece! This site will give you all the boat options to choose from.

Train – After some research, the only way to get to Positano by train is traveling by train to a nearby town like Sorrento or Salerno and then taking a ferry into Positano. If you are on a budget and traveling within Italy, this is a great way to get around but may take some time to get to your final destination.

Car – One of the most popular (that has a price tag) ways to get to and from Positano is by car service. For the convenience and recommendations through friends and family we decided to go with this option. We booked through Viator and it costs $287 one way for 3 people and €180 one way for one person. Although it was expensive, I am glad we made this decision because our driver Marco was so kind and helpful. Born and raised in Positano, he gave us some of the best recommendations on where to eat, where to go, and how to live like a local (if you ever see this, THANK YOU, MARCO!) Friends and family who have stayed in Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Priano have also taken a private car service.

While in Positano

Public Transportation

• Ferry – My family and I used the ferry to travel to Amalfi for the day and it was very quick and easy process. You can buy your ticket at the ticket booths in the Positano port the day before or day of your travels. We booked a departure time at 10am for Amalfi and booked an open ticket return time for Positano, which was really convenient. The last ferry to Positano was at 10pm, but we ended up taking the 7:20pm ferry. When waiting for your ferry you will find that the lines are a little messy, but it will be sectioned off based on your destination. The ferry runs through April through October.
• Bus – The bus service is fairly cheap and goes to many popular towns along the coast making it the most cost efficient and easiest way to explore. Positano.com updates the bus schedule yearly and includes all of the routes you can take buses to, including the time tables. You cannot purchase a ticket onboard the bus, but most “tabaccherie” (cigarette stores) coffee shops, newspaper stands and bars will sell them. Ticket prices can vary depending on your destination, but there are 24 hours unlimited ride tickets that cost €10-12 that you can use in most of the popular towns along the Amalfi Coast.

Taxi/Uber/Private Car Service– Many hotels will partner with private car services that will take you to and from the airport or different towns. Unfortunately, 80% of the time, the cars are going to and from the airport, so you will find there are certain time periods when a car can take you to a new town on the coast. For this reason, we only used the service to go to and from the airport. Taxis are also available on top of Positano town that can take you to different towns but are limited. The average cost from Positano to Sorrento was €130 one way and over €120 to any other towns along the coast. For the car service we used click here to book.

Renting ATVs/ Scooters/ Cars – There is very minimal parking in each of these beach towns, so many people will take public transportation or rent a scooter! After a lot of research, renting a scooter and driving along the Amalfi coast to each town is one of the top things to do. You can find a scooter rental store in the main town.

Our trip to Positano was filled with pasta, lemon sorbet, swimming, limoncello spritz, and a lot of walking! I would love to go back to stay in surrounding towns that I didn’t get to visit due to not having enough PTO days (as we all wish we did) as well as return to Positano. But I’m very glad I got to spend a majority of time in the very busy tourist town. Although not the most budget-friendly, I do not regret spending the amount I did as it made the experience very enjoyable. If you could spend two out of ten of your vacation days in Positano and hop around the rest of the coast, it will be the highlight of your trip!

Ciao!

Positano